On my last visit I saw a large solitary tusker, so I ordered the launch to be steered straight towards it, at half speed. Then with engines silent the launch glided quietly up to it. The tusker was in full "musth" and I could clearly see the black discharge from the glands between the eyes and ears.

E.P. GEE (in Periyar)

In 1895, the Periyar river which runs through some of the most breath-taking scenery in Western Ghats, in "God's own country" Kerala, was dammed inundating more than 50 km2 of prime woodland. But what was lost on the swings was regained in the roundabouts. The newly formed reservoir has proven to be a boon for the resident wildlife and attracts a number of resident as well as migratory water birds while adding to the panoramic grandeur of Periyar; its azure blue waters rippling sensuously in the middle of emerald forests.

The formation of the reservoir also allowed easy access to areas that were previously inaccessible. Motor launches now take visitors across the lake for wildlife viewing.

The lake and the surrounding forests were declared Nelliampatty sanctuary in 1934 and brought under Project Tiger in 1977. Once protected by the Maharaja of Travancore, Periyar National Park stretches over 777 km2. The wilderness of Periyar can be divided into four basic categories: the grasslands, the tropical moist deciduous, semi-evergreen and evergreen forests. Such diverse forest types are home to equally variegate animal life.

The birdlife is as prolific and colourful as the Park vegetation and more than 250 species have been listed here. Owing to dense vegetation the woodland birds are difficult to spot though the lake area with its sweeping views provides excellent birdwatching opportunities. To discover forest birds there are excellent trails, which allow one to penetrate deep into the shadowy by-lanes of Periyar National Park.

The native fauna of Periyar includes the Wild Dog, Gaur (largest bovine in the world), Sloth Bear, Indian Giant Squirrel, Large Brown Flying Squirrel, Small Indian Civet, Common Otter, Wild Boar, Nilgai, and three species of deer - Sambar, Kakar and Mouse Deer. Four species of primates inhabit Periyar, which include the Slender Loris, Nilgiri Langur, Bonnet Macaque and the endangered Lion-tailed Macaque. Above all the Tiger and the Leopard also reside in its murky recesses.

But the "Czar of Periyar" is undoubtedly the Elephant and no other place in Asia compares with this National Park where "Lord Ganesha" can be observed with such ease and safety.